Folding Kayak, Unfolding World

You do not have to have a folding kayak to travel, a hard shell sea kayak will go on the roof of most cars (except convertibles and Smartcars), you can even tow them on a launching trolley behind a bicycle if you are that keen.

However the ability to fold up your kayak and pack it into a bag means that travelling by a combination of: motorcycle, car, train, jumbo jet, float-plane, taxi or even a packhorse, become viable options.

During the depths of winter (2002/2003), the thought of flying off to somewhere warm and sunny for a (sea kayaking) holiday was rather appealing. So, where in the Mediterranean offers good weather, good food, interesting paddling and deserted beaches? France is very close; the 905 Canoe-Kayak map shows several hundred miles of noteworthy coastline.

Greece, on the other hand, offers much warmer water and with so many islands from which to choose, we only had to get a few friends together and pick a date to go!

September seemed a good time, the sea would be nice and warm and the prevailing summer winds should be less likely to blow.

The Island of Milos came out of the hat. So how were we going to get there? I have driven to Greece twice, a 5000 mile round trip. This time one of the cheaper air fares seemed the sensible option. We chose British Airways to get a slightly better baggage allowance. The tickets were simply booked on-line.

A few weekend camping trips here in the UK during the early summer helped us to reduce the amount of kayak and camping gear to the minimum. We found that we could get a Feathercraft Sea Kayak, four-piece Lendal paddle, tent, sleeping bag, Thermarest, PFD, a few dry bags, knife/fork/spoon/penknife and a few clothes, all in the Feathercraft rucksack! A flight bag carried two nesting Billies, first aid kit, head torch, SW radio (to get the BBC World Service), swimming trunks, sun tan cream and a toothbrush. We took a GSM Mobile phone (with no way of re-charging whilst away, took four of the special batteries), and arranged to get the weather forecast sent by text message each day. Oh and some teabags! All we had to do then was to wait patiently for our holiday time to come around.

A phone call to BA Customer Services a few days before the flight to let them know that our group (4) were travelling each with a folding kayak ensured that the check-in clerk expected 'folding boats'.

The night flight from London Heathrow to Athens arrived at about 4am. We took the express bus from the airport to Piraeus port. We had hoped to get the early morning ferry to Milos: but discovered that it only ran in July and August. So, we bought tickets for the afternoon fast-Ferry, left our bags at the ticket office, and walked into the town for some breakfast. After strolling around Piraeus, doing some shopping (bought a Camping Gaz cooker complete with two gaz cylinders for € 12). We boarded the fast-cat, and zoomed across the sea, arriving at Milos at about 10pm. We found a quiet beach near the port to get some much needed sleep.

Our first day on Milos was spent rather leisurely: assembling the Feathercraft, shopping for food, water, mask & snorkel, etc.

We practiced some kayak rolling in the lovely warm sea, swimming, snorkelling, and packing and re-packing the kayaks to ensure good trim. A superb seafood dinner with Greek salad and wine meant that we slept well that night.

Next morning we rose early, stowed our sleeping bags, and paddling away from shore heading around the Island, exploring some of the sea caves and stopping for lunch on a beach. The wind picked up a little during the afternoon, slowing down our progress slightly. Our Camp that evening was on another empty beach, during dinner we enjoyed watching a magnificent sunset.

A camp routine, sharing tasks, soon slotted into place. Unloading and re-loading the kayaks become quicker, as we improved our packing technique. Presented with a Taverna at meal time, it was impossible to resist an Ouzo whilst pondering over the menu. A carafe of wine and a meal inevitably followed.

Between our 4 Feathercraft, we set off with 55Litres of drinking water and a nice selection of food. We had bread, pasta, dried and fresh fruit, Alpen, porridge, meat, fish, cheese, tea, coffee, evaporated milk, honey, and a bottle of Tabasco sauce!

The whole Island seems to be geologically interesting: the ancient Greeks and even the Romans mined various minerals, centuries ago. In many ways the southern coastline is the most spectacular. There are something like 100 sea caves, and a kayak has to be the best way to explore them. The caves are (naturally) all different. Some have large entrances allowing four kayaks to paddle in side by side. Another will have a smaller entrance, then a huge cavern within, dark, but for the blast of sun lighting up the seabed beneath the kayaks. Paddle into another bay, stop for a swim and some lunch, then further along the coast a couple of mountain goats clinging to the (almost) vertical rock face looked down on us. A narrow gap in the rocks comes into view: could it be an entrance. So narrow, we put our paddles under the deck lines, and enter the cave using our hands on the walls. It's dark and cool, out of the sun, and as our eyes become accustomed to the dark, we don our head torches and enter further. Spooky, no tide, no swell, strange acoustics: what's that ahead? Our narrow passage opens out into a larger cave, and from the roof descends a beam of sunlight! There is a natural light shaft. A few camera flashes, (and) juggling positions, we manage to turn around and, hand over hand, work our way back out into the open: swapping head torches for sunglasses.

 

Paddling further along the coast we pass the loading area for an open cast mine. It's all quiet today, no ships to load. Fishing lines out, we try jiggling the lures, in the deep blue water. Wondering what we might catch for dinner, we try different lures, different depths, but, no fish today.

Soon, we paddle into another bay. Wow! Rock arches, more caves, narrow beaches, but too narrow to draw the kayaks up out of the water, and still have space for the tents. The sun is starting to sink, the shadows are getting longer. Time to make camp; we paddle through a massive arch, and into another bay with an empty beach. With the kayaks lifted well clear of the water, and tied together: no chances being taken of the kayaks being blown off the beach and out to sea (Crete is the nearest land downwind). Dinner prepared and eaten, and washing up done, coffee on the brew, just time to read a few pages of my book before dark. We slept out under the stars again, no bivi bag needed, as there is no dew in the mornings. All good things have to come to an end, and as our holiday draws to a close, we gradually work our way along the coast. We had previously arranged for a lift back to civilisation (the port of Adamas). The weather forecast had warned of increasing wind: they were right. The last 2 or 3 miles were paddled into what must have been Force 6 gusting 7! At times we seemed to be going backwards: Crete was only 2 days paddle downwind!

Two Gumotex inflatable canoes were being prepared for launching, as we landed, by a couple from the Czech Republic who were just beginning their vacation. E-mail addresses swapped, hands shaken, they paddled away, whilst we sat on real chairs at a real table, being served Ouzo and the local Mythos brand beer.

The next morning we folded up the kayaks into their rucksacks, and caught the ferry back to Piraeus. One night spent in the luxury of a Hotel (€ 20 each). Our final day allowed a train ride into Athens, a walk up to and around the Parthenon before lunch, then a bus ride back to the airport.

A really good time was had by all. Friendships strengthened and no disagreements. Where in the world shall we take the Feathercraft next? (We are open to suggestions!)

Clive Leonard