SCOTLAND IN SUNSHINE ...AND SHARKS TO!

Where would we spend the week paddling? Where-ever the weather promised to be the best! The forecast for the whole of the U.K was good and with tentative plans on paper for Cornwall, Wales and Scotland, it had to be Scotland.

Leaving sunny Sussex behind us and heading up to Oban, the perfect gateway for so many sea kayaking adventures around the west coast of Scotland, Tony and I explored and re-explored our options for the forthcoming few days. Before enjoying the paddling we had to find a place to stay for the night, and at the beginning of a Bank Holiday weekend in Oban this was no easy task. Never again shall I go without having pre-booked something as battling with the coach loads of elderly folk, the backpacking youth and international travellers proved a tough challenge.

With a good forecast our plan was to head clockwise around the Island of Mull taking in the Treshnish Isles and possibly crossing to the Island of Coll if the good weather held. A couple of years ago the Island of Coll proved to be a destination that eluded us due to poor weather conditions, however this time it was looking promising.

I would be paddling a Nordkapp Jubilee - a beast of a boat - which I am still learning to tame, and Tony would be paddling a matching coloured Capella. By heading off clockwise around the Island the daytime tides were in our favour for the majority of the trip.

After packing the boats, a quick bite of lunch and being the responsible paddler, husband and father that I am by letting the Police know where I was leaving the car, we set off down the Sound of Kerrera. The winds were fairly constant at about a Force 4. I secretly hoped that it would not be like this all week. Thankfully it wasn't. Crossing the Firth of Lorn from Rubha Seanach (the Venerable headland) of Kerrera we glanced behind us to notice that Gylen Castle appeared to be surrounded by some scaffolding. Maybe this fairytale castle, built in 1587 by the MacDougall's is being renovated? Does anybody know?

The first night's pitch on Mull was on a reasonable site despite some local youth camping out and wanting to use their motorbike on the beach. Shocked by them asking if we would mind, how could we refuse? Both our world views of youth must be jaded somewhat by our professions!

On Sunday we awoke to a heavy drizzle and broke camp as hastily as one does the first morning when unpractised at re-packing sea kayaks. Today we knew would be a long paddling day in order to reach a place to camp, having to paddle underneath the towering cliffs along the south east coast of the island with no spots to stop. Despite the morning drizzle this was, for me, one of the most enjoyable days paddling as the combination of mighty cliffs and mists were spectacular. Goats, seals, red deer and much birdlife helped the time pass. We passed Frank Lockwood's Island wondering who he was. I now know that he was Solicitor General (1894-5) and the brother in law to the 21 st Maclean of Duart. We also passed Carsaig Arches which are spectacular eroded sea caves adjoining the high cliffs. Thankfully the wind had calmed as the day progressed. After a long day - approximately 36 Km - we pulled in to a respectable sandy beach.

The next day we aimed to paddle just past Iona, a shorter day setting ourselves up for going to Staffa the following day. We also hoped to stop in Fionnphort to phone home. The day became hotter as it unfolded and we quickly entered Iona Sound. As it was high tide there were no tricky currents to contend with. Two cups of tea and a phone call later in Fionnphort we slid back in to our kayaks and headed off around the corner to look for a place to pitch. Lots of lovely little beaches were spotted but non to our satisfaction, so we decided to cross to Eilean Annraidh at the northern tip of Iona. This had beautiful white sandy beaches and day trippers sunbathing and learning to water ski, however despite this inconvenience it met today's criteria, good views, a bit of shelter and rocks to sit on to reflect upon the day. It is easy to see why St Columba considered Iona an ideal place to create a place of worship and reflection back in the year 563. Today Iona is visited by many and is cared for by the National Trust for Scotland as well as its inhabitants.

Just in case we attracted a sea mist I took a bearing to Staffa and Lunga, our intended destinations for the following day. No mist appeared just more beautiful hot weather. The crossing to Staffa, on the map was approximately eight kilometres and the tide was helpfully heading in at approximately 30 degrees. We reached it in a short time having been greatly assisted by the weather and tide. Staffa, again owned by the National Trust for Scotland, has 40 metre cliffs that are riddled with sea caves and regular basalt columns which at time make it appear manmade as they seem so perfect. These columns can be seen in many places along the coastline and dive under the channel to rise again in Ulster as the Giant's Causeway. It certainly was very spectacular and well worth the paddle out to them. After doing the touristy thing of entering the caves - but much deeper of course in a kayak than a boat, a snack, and a pee break we set of for the Island of Lunga, the largest of the Treshnish Isles, reaching it easily by lunchtime.

Having visited the Island of Fladda a couple of years ago and been enchanted by the islands Tony and I decided that Lunga should be our destination this time. Once there we were not disappointed and of course the good weather significantly helped. This is a treasure of an island with a volcanic plateau. It is absolutely beautiful with fantastic birdlife and clear, cold waters to refresh the mind and body.

That night Tony and I discussed the possibility of undertaking the crossing to the Island of Coll. The forecast looked good and we were feeling good. On that basis we agreed it should be done but the final decision would be made in the morning upon hearing the shipping forecast (thankfully Tony is an early riser!). That night was also my turn to cook. Having had a traumatic experience a couple of years ago on Fladda eating Polenta - the Italian alternative to rice, potato and pasta - I had hoped to try this once again and lay the ghosts to rest. The packet states that it can boil volcanically - fitting for an island with a volcanic plateau - however I couldn't seem to make it taste any better than hardening wallpaper paste, despite adding some extra ingredients which I thought might jazz it up. It seems like such a good food to take camping but maybe I am mistaken. Sorry Tony! Any suggestions or shall I give it up?

We woke to clear skies, calm seas and keen muscles. We set off and with the tide in our favour we completed the crossing easily in a couple of hours. On the way we encountered Harbour Porpoises, puffins and gannets. A truly wonderful trip on flat, calm seas.

Once at Arinagour - a small port but the hub of life on the Island of Coll - we stopped to take advantage of a wonderful, if not unexpected, little restaurant. The First Port of Coll - a newly established venue run by Frances and Brian MacIntyre. With seats in the sun and smoked venison and pear salad for me and goat's cheese salad for Tony, washed down by copious amounts of orange juice and lemonade we felt refreshed and ready for . lazing in the sun!

Over lunch we had decided to circumnavigate the island, and with time to kill for the tide to turn in our favour we wandered around and bought some provisions at the island stores. We also made a note of the advertised shower facilities on offer at the Coll Hotel.

Coll has a population of about 170, considerably less than its close neighbour Tiree which has a population of about 700. Rich in history, as all the Scottish islands are, Coll benefits from many archaeological sites of value, as well as a mild climate. This also means that it is rich in wildlife and is a superb place to explore on foot, by bike or by boat.

The tide had turned and was now running at approximately 190 degrees, just right as we were heading on a bearing of 190 degrees. Soon after departing Arinagour we spotted fins ahead of us - were they porpoises, no too big, dolphin maybe, or shark... oh yes shark. A silent paddle and glide took us to where a basking shark was feeding. Another was further out but this one didn't seem to notice or care about us. A shark, my muscles loosened with anxiety until I remembered that these sort do not eat people instead only plankton. However these are the second largest shark in the world and can weigh up to seven tonnes. This one was certainly as long as my Nordkapp. The Hebrides is becoming a huge summer hotspot for these creatures and sightings are increasing each year. In the winter they probably go to warmer or deeper regions. This one passed silently beside, underneath and around us with its huge mouth filtering. We could see its gill rakers very clearly and occasionally it would poke its nose up out of the water. I am reliably informed that they can filter 1000 - 2000 cubic metres of water per hour. Other interesting facts about basking sharks are that pregnancy last for over two years and that their lifespan can be up to 50 years. Once ruthlessly hunted for their liver and the oil produced, as well as the fins, they are now protected in many regions by law. The only word I can use to describe this experience is 'awesome'. We had seven more sightings around the island, with one other being as close as the first one just outside Arinagour again.

After a long day - the longest so far of approximately 38 Km - we pitched camp on the west side of the island on a great little site, having passed many stunning sandy beaches along the way.

The next day, and our last day of paddling, we set off northwards with a slight breeze, but nothing to get worried about. We passed many seals - both Common and Grey - often with numbers of them following us some way out of inquisitiveness. We rounded the northern tip at lunch time and paddled in to Sorisdale Bay for a spot of hot soup and pitta bread. Here still stands the remains of a settlement dating back to the Norse occupation, which certainly looked like it needed a bit of attention before it could be lived in!

The final push to Arinagour seemed to drag on but catching mackerel for tea and seeing more basking sharks eased the time. The free camp site in the port proved to be a bit of a trek with kit so we opted for a small island just past the Caledonian MacBrayne pier. This was a great site to finish the trip on, except for the midges which came out in force to see us off. Never mind, the fresh mackerel went down well!

The last day saw us paddling a very short distance to the ferry pier and hauling our boats and gear up the rocks in a most undignified and sweaty fashion. Our return ferry to Oban was at 13.15 so once kit was sorted we trotted off to Arinagour for a big breakfast at the First Port of Coll and then a hot shower at the Hotel. Fantastic!

Once back in Oban we had a swift trip in to Nancy Black's to buy the chart for the next adventure in Scotland.

A superb trip - everything about it worked - the weather, the company, the tides and the planning. Don't you just love it when a plan comes together!

Any suggestions or recipes for Polenta will be gratefully received by e-mail at kevinball2002@aol.com

Good reference points for further information are:

• The Scottish Islands by Hamish Haswell-Smith (1996), the Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust (website), Imray C charts and Ordnance Survey maps.

Words: Kevin Ball

Pictures: Tony Sandry