The Needles: August Bank Holiday 2000

Sitting at home a few weeks earlier, the thought of a weekend camping in the New Forest and a couple of days paddling seemed a good idea. As Paul and I pitched our tent under darkening skies and howling winds, it might just as well have been Scotland in March!

Peter Whitlock, who lives on the Isle of Wight, had not only agreed to lead our trip to The Needles but to paddle over in the morning to meet us. Wakening to the sound of thunder, it was time to phone Peter for a local update - his enthusiasm and optimism over the phone meant that the trip was on (despite our misgivings and doubts). The fact that Peter is a very experienced paddler and had extensive local knowledge also helped.

Would we be up to his assurances that everything was ok? Apart from Peter, the Hurst Race was a new challenge. This narrow stretch of water twixt the mainland and the Island has a fearsome local reputation.

As we sorted and loaded our own 3 boats, Peters' single kayak came slowly into view. The weather had, as predicted, brightened as he paddled over from the island to meet us at Keyhaven. The shingle spit of Hurst castle forms a gentle beach at Keyhaven, with the road right next to it. This makes a far easier access point than Lymington itself.

The 4 us, now fully briefed by Peter on where we were going and what to expect, made our way up the channel. The sea -state was settled but we were still in the lee of the shingle breakwater. Hurst Castle sits fairly imposingly at the head of the spit, seemingly unmoved by the wind that blew all around it - the same couldn't be said for the seas around it! The waves here were breaking slightly, scattering white horses around in the winds.

To be fair, The Race itself did not cause too much of a problem. No breaking waves on the way across but a fairly choppy ride, messed up every now and then by the wake of passing yachts and shipping. Its potential to be nasty was clearly evident as, every now and then, a pattern of waves would appear from nowhere. Give the wind a chance to blow directly through here and you would have a different paddle all together. Do not take the Race lightly.

Once on the Island side, we followed the coast round Colwell and Totland Bays towards the Needles. The coast here is not stunningly high or remote, a mixture of rocky beaches, wooded headlands and cliffs. The poor weather was keeping the holidaymakers away and this added a sense of isolation to the place. A drop of summer sunshine on the coloured sands of Alum Bay would have helped but as we'd all forgotten our cameras it was probably immaterial anyway!

Inside Alum Bay we swept under the cliffs that disjoint themselves into The Needles. Small caves, clear waters and the gun emplacements that have protected these shores for hundreds of years were a strange combination. An interesting mix of nature and mankind in parallel - I somehow have no doubts as to which will outlive the other! Sheltered from the easterly winds. Paddling across Alum was relaxing and gave us plenty of time to sit and look. A myriad of colours tumble out of the cliffs to make Alum Bay the unique sight that it is. Yet how many of the thousands of people who go there, get to see the view from our vantage point?

Spray tumbled and blew through the gaps in the fingers of cliff, in a wind that was intent on snatching the paddle from your hands. The uninviting mass of surf and white caps thrashing around on the windward side of the Needles soon changed our mind about our lunch spot. Scratchells Bay would have to wait until another day

A revised lunch spot was selected; just off Alum Bay, past Hatherwood Point and away from the few die hard tourists on Alum beach. Casually taking our time over lunch, we swapped stories of boats, favourite trips, food and equipment. A typical kayakers lunch!

Taking a more direct route straight across the Solent we made our way back towards Hurst castle and home. Turning just off Warden Point, the trip home was on a swell that carried us through the Race. Perhaps to show us what she could achieve, the Race had picked up and some concentration was needed this time to paddle through. For Andy, this was his first experience of a big sea but with Peters' help he came through smiling.

Back in the lee of Hurst castle and the day was almost over. Well for us anyway - Peter still had to make the trip back again to meet his wife back on the Island!

The weather had held, the sea had given us a mixed bag to play with, the company was great and another good days paddling had been accomplished. This trip would not have happened without Peters' optimism, local knowledge and paddling skills, so to him - a big thank you.

Paddlers: Nigel Williams, Paul Frost, Andy White and Peter Whitlock.